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   PlanetDreamcast | Hardware | Reviews | Mad Catz MC2 Racing Wheel
    Mad Catz MC2 Racing Wheel
Is the AccuDrive system really something to abandon your god for? - Review By Mr. Domino

Mad Catz MC2 Racing Wheel

While console technology may have finally equaled arcade technology, arcade machines will always make a better entertainment experience thanks to the large, expensive cabinets used to house the games. This is why, no matter how great a port Hydro Thunder is for the Dreamcast, it never feels the same without the loud, booming bass rattling behind my head, the seat rocking along with the engine, and the more suitable steering wheel, stick, and pedal controls.

While I'd of course enjoy using the Mad Catz MC2 Racing Wheel for (hopefully) all racing games, Hydro Thunder is without a doubt the biggie for me. See, I used to own the Mad Catz Dream Wheel, which did not seem to like Hydro Thunder one bit. I simply could not get the stick to function for boosting, nor could I even get it to act as the drive and reverse switch in Crazy Taxi. So, I got rid of it. Seeing the MC2 wheel made me think perhaps Mad Catz saw the error of its ways and fixed these and other complaints I had with that not so evil but calling it that anyway wheel. Let's see.

  • The Good

    Easily the greatest improvement the MC2 has over other Dreamcast wheels is its patented AccuDrive� Calibration System (ACS). A lighted gauge above the wheel's neck on the base will show the wheel's current ACS settings when the ACS button is pressed (it acts as a general speedometer when not in use by the ACS). Using the D-pad on the wheel, you can adjust the deadband and maximum range to your liking. The deadband setting measures how far from the center the wheel must turn before registering any movement. At the other end, the maximum range allows you to adjust just how far you must rotate the wheel to reach its maximum turn rate. While the wheel only allows five deadband and four maximum range settings, the inclusion of it is definitely a plus. No longer are you stuck poor wheel calibration. Although there may not be a setting perfect for you, there are plenty enough combinations to find something manageable. As with most programmable controllers, the ACS settings are temporarily stored within the wheel and disappear after disconnecting it from the Dreamcast or powering down the system. The manual does a nice job explaining how it works, which is also a welcomed plus.

    In addition to the ACS, the MC2 also includes built-in force feedback/vibration/rumble/whatever the kids are calling it nowadays. The rumble is great and shakes the wheel with quite a bit of power. While the rumble devices in Dreamcast controllers feel cheesy (due to the solely center-placed small box), the MC2's rumbles hard and throughout the unit. Depending on how well the game is programmed, you'll find varying levels of rumbling add greatly to the experience. Driving over bumpy dirt in Test Drive Le Mans produces low, constant rumble while driving backwards around the course and striking an oncoming car will throw out a violent, quick shake.

    Since the rumbling is built-in, the wheel only has a single slot for a memory card. The VMU is mostly visible thanks to the slot's placement near the top of the base, so you can still somewhat refer to it if needed while racing, although you really shouldn't look away from the screen while playing video games. The MC2 also padded with rubber. Mad Catz really must have a thing for rubber, because while covering the top of the steering wheel makes sense, the little bottom bit Mad Catz throws in doesn't. No one drives underhanded, and given the wheel's small size, it stands out as a useless addition. It would have been better to either coat the sides in rubber instead or just do the entire wheel. Thankfully, I think most people probably drive holding the top-sides of the wheel, so there should be enough rubber to ensure a good grip.

    While Mad Catz skimped a bit on the rubber, there are more than enough buttons to feed a starving family of four. At the center of the wheel is a circular D-pad, which is extremely helpful for navigating menus and entering your initials when you post a record setting time. The A and X buttons are butterfly buttons located underneath the wheel at the base where it connects; the gear shift stick also functions as these buttons as well and works perfectly with Hydro Thunder. The others (B, C, Y, Z, L, and R), are split into two groups along the face of the wheel, including a digital set for the usually analog L and R buttons. Of course, most driving games don't really use many buttons to begin with, but it's still a nice addition.

    Mad Catz really knows how to make sturdy, quality products, and the MC2 Racing Wheel is no exception. Its heavy plastic build is guaranteed not to rust or crack under heavy use. The pedals (functioning as the analog L and R buttons) are strong and hinged like a real pedals. The pedals connect to the base with a long PC cable, which screws into the right port on the base. The base also includes three large suction cups if you want to use a table to hold the base and keep it from moving, or a couple of retractable leg braces. The wheel and base itself seem almost bolted on together given the tight tension in turning it, and I've still yet to feel any loosening up on the neck after extensive play. Of course, this can also lead to some problems as well.

  • The Bad

    My biggest gripe with the MC2 is that it doesn't have a button reprogram feature. With all the investment into creating the ACS, you'd think that Mad Catz would also throw in the ability to reorganize the buttons. After all, it's a feature included with its (much cheaper)Dream Pad. Unfortunately, there is no such feature with the MC2, and thanks to that oversight, I can't get it to work with Crazy Taxi. Sure, the wheel drives fine and steers well within the game, but you cannot use the stick to switch driving modes like in the arcade game. Thus, you're at the mercy of whatever game you're hoping to play the wheel.

    I also don't like the hinged pedals at all. You must remember to press down as well as forward, else the pedal will just tilt and not register being pressed. While the pedal itself is well built for a car pedal, I prefer something which can deliver a more instantaneous reaction when I'm playing a game. I was able to jump my Hydro Thunder boats just fine with the pedals, but the constant speed adjustments I'm used to making in Test Drive Le Mans and Re-Volt are killed by the delayed response. It always feel as though you're putting more pressure on the pedal than you should, and I don't like that.

    There are a number of odd miscalculations by Mad Catz as well in developing this wheel. While the leg braces are a nice touch, they may not be useful to those with too thin or fat legs. The braces are only a few inches long and as wide as the base, restricting its usefulness a good bit. I found I had to apply some extra pressure to the braces by opening my legs more than I needed to to keep the wheel steady when holding it on my lap. The wheel also feels a bit too sturdy, especially for one so small. It takes far too much pressure to rotate the wheel, and the force kicks in hard just a bit past the center position (mostly fixed by setting the maximum range to its lowest setting). It's also awkward to use the wheel's buttons since it's so small, although most serious driving games don't really require constant button pressing. The pedals' grips aren't that great, either, and tend to slip a bit while attempting to press down on them. Too bad they don't have suction cups on them as well.

  • The Final Word
    The Mad Catz MC2 Racing Wheel is well built and has some really great features, including the ability to adjust the wheel's sensitivity. Although the MC2 is among the better wheels on the market, it really could have been something great with a few slight adjustments.

    Manufacturer: Mad Catz
    Retail Price: $59.99

    Highs: Great features (including the ACS), visual display, sturdy build, and tons of buttons.

    Lows: Steering wheel too tight, limited to the game's configuration, pedal base doesn't grip enough, and the wheel is a bit small.

    Final Score:

    (out of a possible 10)

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